|Here's a sample of an S2K beam with OEM shield at 20ft with Philips 4300k D2S bulb.
Sharp and straight, but sloping downward on the left and softened on the right sides.
|S2K beam with modded shield for a more evenly spread output while still maintaining sharpness, color,
|OEM cutoff at a different angle. 20ft from wall.||Modded cutoff. Completely straight across, more concentrated light below the cutoff on the left side.|
|Materials used in this mod. Obtainable from your local home improvement stores.|
|A piece of paper can be wrapped around the curvature of the s2k shield. Mark the height and width with a pen.||Use the paper as a template to cut out a flash sheet with a height of 30mm and a width of 85mm.
The shield height is only 15mm, but I addd another 15mm for creating a mounting tab.
|Use double-sided scotch tape to hold the rule and the flash sheet together.
The lower and upper step should be only .5mm to 1mm apart.
|Continuously slide the exacto knife in one direction along the ruler.|
|After about 30 slides, a clean cut is made.||Cut the hair-like piece of the shield at 45 degree angle to get an OEM slant cutoff step|
|Cut the remaining tabs.||You can use one of the tabs and create an H-shape mounting tab with 30x15mm dimension.
Save this part for later. It will be used to create a mounting anchor.
|Use a medication bottle or battery for rounding the shield.
Do NOT wrap the shield at an angle. This will result in a crooked beam output.
|The correct method is to wrap the shield horizontally along the battery.
This will give a straigth beam output.
|Wrap the flash shield around the battery, keeping it straight||OEM s2k shield vs rounded custom shield (back view)|
|Bend the leg of the shield 90 degree downward.||Place the shield along a straight edge and bend down.|
|Do the same thing with the H-shape tab. You can then use a dremel spinning wheel to cut the legs.||This is how the mounting tabs should look like, after bending and cutting off the legs.|
|Use a #6 nut/bot and #8 washer to hold the curve shield with the H-shape mounting tab together
to create a mountable shield
|Mountable shield at a different angle.|
|Oem S2K shield||Test mount of new custom shield|
|Top view of Oem S2K shield||Top view with custom shield|
|Back view of shield. Rotate the shield so that the shield is horizontally even across. Moving the shield up/down
will affect the amount of concentrated light below the cutoff beam. I recommend moving the shield down 1mm
below OEM shield height. This will increase your overall foreground intensity while maintening good
concentration of light along the cutoff line.
|Here's a sample where the cutoff shield is not horizontally straight.||25ft from wall. Here's a sample where the cutoff shield is placed higher than the OEM shield height.
Overall intensity get decreased.
|Here's a sample where the cutoff shield is placed 1mm below OEM shield height. Note the overall increase in
intensity below the cutoff beam. Also note the concentrated streak of light below the sides.
|Side view. If the beam output appears frowning, tip the shield forward. If the beam output appears smiling,
tip the shield backward. After tipping the shield forward/backward, you'll may need to move the shield
backward/forward respectively (to maintain the same distant of the shield from the lens).
|25ft from wall. Here's a sample of a smiley cutoff beam. To make the beam horizontally straight,
bend the shield backward, toward the bulb.
|Top view looking down. Move the shield forward for sharper and more concentrated blue at further
distant(100ft). Move the shield backward for sharper and more concentrated blue at shorter distant(15ft).
Rotate the shield side-to-side if one side of the cutoff beam is softer/sharper than the other side.
Both sides should be equally sharp/soft (assuming the shield is symetrically curved).
Move the shield side-to-side to center the cutoff step.
|At 25ft from wall. Here's a sample where the shield is moved backward toward the bulb about 1mm to get
more blue. At 100+ ft, the blue is still visible, but a bit soft.
|Here's a sample where the shield is moved 1mm forward toward the lens. Note there are a mixture of blue,
purple, orange, and yellow. The orange/yellow will become blue/purple at 100+ ft and the beam remains
relatively sharp too (if you're using a clear lens projector).